Technical dificulties

The last five days have been full of incidents. Not a single day has ended without problems!

Day 1, Tierra del Fuego national park, pic 1 and 2:

After admiring the sights in the park, I returned to the bike only to find the rear tire flat. I began looking after the replacement tube and I found out that the correct tube has been mistakenly installed in the front wheel (during the last visit at the tire shop) so actually I had to remove two wheels and take two tires out. In addition to this, I only had compressed air for ONE tube. So I had to ask a tourist to call the park rangers, take the wheels to the fire brigade and use their air compressor to complete the repair.

Day 2, en route from Ushuaia to Rio Grande

Again, flat tire. Air reserve depleted, so once again take the wheel out, hitch-hike back to Ushuaia and then to the bike etc.

Day 3, en route from Rio Gallegos to El Calafate, pic 3 and 4

After riding some 80km suddenly I lost power. After inspecting everything I found out the chain (purchased brand new just 8000km ago and made in Japan) was missing. After a 20 minute search and rescue operation spanning over 1000m we found the chain in the bushes with the master link broken. Of course I had no replacement (since the new chain came with only one master link and the old one was OEM endless type) so I had to stop an empty truck (that took nearly one hour) load the bike, take it back to Rio Gallegos, solve the problem. The driver was so nice, he didn’t even accept our money for the trouble, all he wanted was a bill of Romanian currency for his collection!

Day 4, en route from Rio Gallegos to Caleta Olivia, pic 5

Again, labor strike! I don’t know who and why was protesting this time, but as a result the tankers supplying gasoline to Rio Gallegos area were not allowed to pass. One day earlier, waiting lines at gas stations have been longer than the ones I saw during the first gulf war! But on that day, there were no more lines because there was no more gas to wait for. So we left with only 60% of a full tank, hoping to make it to the first gas station. That was not the case, and we ran out of fuel while in the middle of nowhere and during a storm. But this situation was more tricky than you might think it was: since there was no gasoline in that area, there were also no gasoline fueled cars on the road. Just diesels! So I had to hitch-hike once again until I reached a restaurant were I was lucky enough to find a gasoline powered car that spared 9 liters with us. Nine liters of gasoline might not seem much, but when you are with an empty motorcycle in the middle of nowhere, that’s a fortune!

Day 5, Puerto Madryn

As I stopped in front of a hotel, I noticed the water pump that I replaced in Peru is leaking!!! 🙁 Somehow, everything that is related to Peru is causing delays…

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The colony

Wherever we go, we try to find a point with a higher altitude from where we can get a better understanding of our surroundings. While exploring the hills North of Ushuaia we found this strange colony. Everything seemed very provisional, just like a work camp, but actually that was a permanent settlement. See for yourself!970 ush971 ush972 ush973 ush974 ush975 ush

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The prison

The old prison is nowadays home to all municipal museums, covering such aspects as ship navigation in the area, flora and fauna, the discovery of Antarctica, the colonization of Tierra del Fuego and marine related art.

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Tierra del Fuego national park

We spent half a day in this park. Since now it’s winter down there, not many tourists were present and everything was very quiet. Only a hungry fox disturbed us during the visit! 🙂947 park948 park949 park950 park951 park952 park953 park954 park955 park

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The end of the world train

The area around nowadays Ushuaia was colonized during late 19th century, in order to assure Argentinian sovereignty over the newly acquired land. At the beginning it was just a small penal colony, that grew together with the town. From the beginning there was some rail transporting systems implemented that allowed prisoners to bring wood from the nearby forest to be used for construction and heating.

After the penitentiary was decommissioned, in 1947, the 25km long railway was left to rust. Around 1990, when authorities, in response to the growing number of tourists, decided to restore the system, not much was left (one loco and one passenger car were preserved and are now on display at the local museum). So they decided to build the End of the World Train (El tren del fin del mundo) that is today moving tourists along the last 7km of the original railway. The ride lasts for about 45 minutes each way. The views are terrific: only the landscape from Disneyland is anywhere close to the one we saw during the ride, the ponds, creeks, wild horses and snow covered mountains competing to create such an impression!

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